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Disclaimer: These tips and tricks are things that have worked for me. If you decide
to do the same, and the axel grease hits the fan, it’s your own fault. Some tips may
be R56 or MINI “S” specific.
Bonnet Safety Latch Release Location
Wiper Wave
Jacking Point
Wheels Rusted to Hubs
Clean Wheels
Exterior Black Plastic Trim
Speedo Error
Run Flats vs Non-Run Flats
Thumps from the Boot
Glovebox Latch
Timing Chain Tensioner Seal Oil Leak
Running on Empty
Not in Your Owner’s Manual
Battery Replacement
Silver Aluminum Smart Key Fob Ring Rim Trim Cover Replacement for R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 R60
Bonnet Safety Latch Release Location So, you’ve popped the bonnet release inside your MINI, and get out to check your oil on the unreadable dip stick or cook supper on the turbo’s heat shield. To avoid groping for the safety latch release, extend an imaginary line from the driver’s side windscreen washer nozzle to just inside the front lip of the bonnet. The release lever will be at your finger tip.
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Rear Wiper Wave
I learned this one day when I pulled up behind another MINI at a traffic light. I gave the traditional MINI wave in case the other MINI driver was looking in their mirror. The back glass was tinted so I couldn’t really see if they saw me. Then, their rear wiper made a one-cycle sweep to acknowledge my wave. That brought a smile. Should you find yourself in a similar situation, momentarily rotate the knurled knob on the end of the right-side stalk forward (but not too far unless you want a dose washer fluid) and then immediately back to give a one rear-wiper wave.
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Jacking Point When rotating your wheels (I do it about every 5,000 miles) it’s a simple matter to jack your MINI so that you can switch both of the same-side wheels at once by placing the floor jack near the balance point on the MINI. Because the MINI is front-heavy due to the engine location, I found that jack placement should be directly below the outside mirror for equal front-rear weight distribution. I use a 1-foot length of 2X4 (for load distribution and to protect the plastic molding) with the front end of the 2X4 pushed right up to the MINI’s jacking point (see the photo below).
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Wheels Rusted to Hubs The first time I rotated my 16-inch Bridgespoke wheels, I had a couple of issues. I’d had the wheels rotated (before I bought the floor jack) and paid a tire store to do it. The tire store torqued the wheel bolts so tight, I had to use a 3-foot length of ¾-inch galvanized pipe as an extension on the MINI wrench to break them free. A 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and the floor jack put an end to that mistake. Set the torque wrench to 103 ft/lbs. Then, after I removed the wheel bolts, but the wheels wouldn’t budge. After rapping the edges of the tires several times with a rubber hammer, there was finally enough wiggle, then I muscled them off. The wheel to rotor hub interface had rusted and fused them together. I wiped them clean and put a thin coat of marine grease on both surfaces, and wiped off the excess. The one coat of grease seems to have done the trick.
The rust spots like the ones above, can actually fuse the wheel to the hubClean Wheels We’re all familiar with the soft pads and rotors that come on our MINIs and the mess they make on our wheels. The first couple of times I rotated my wheels, I used the highly touted “Wheel Wax” to mitigate the issue. The black dust rinsed off a little easier for a few weeks then I couldn’t tell any difference. After seeing an ad for ArmorAll Wheel Protectant on TV and watching a YouTube video extolling its virtues, I sprang for a small can. The wheels still get dirty, but they rinse off much better with the Armor All and it lasts for months, not weeks. (THIS PRODUCT HAS BEEN RE BRANDED AS “Outlast Brake Dust Repellent”.)
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Exterior Black Plastic Trim Another ArmorAll product doesn’t fare as well. The original AA vinyl protectant leaves a sticky residue. Not so with Aerospace 303 Protectant. I couldn’t find it locally, so I ordered it from Amazon. At least once each year, I apply Aerospace 303 to my exterior Black Plastic exterior trim and leatherette and vinyl interior, to abate the fading from UV light. The first time I did it, I used an old kitchen sponge on the exterior trim. I tried to be careful not to get the 303 onto the painted surfaces, but of course, it happened. Now, I use a 1-inch disposable paintbrush with the wooden handle and sharp-edged foam allpicator for a more precise application. Check out this link on Detailing Vinyl. Rubber and Plastic.
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Speedo Error CarNut (on the MINI Owners’ Network Message Board) suggested a work-around for the MINIs speedometer error back in 2007. CarNut wrote:
“You might consider changing to 205/50-16 or 205/55-16 to get a wider selection. They will still fit your OEM wheels and the 205/55-16 will correct most of the MINI’s inherent speedometer error. The slightly larger size will also improve your ride some. “
So, at 28,000 miles, I replaced my 195/55-16 with some 205/55-16s. It still doesn’t always match my GPS, but it’s much closer now.Tire Size Calculator
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Run Flats vs Non-Run Flats The R56 MINI Cooper S is mandated to come with runflat tires. The Bridgestone Turanzas that came on mine had a harsh ride and were really noisy on crushed granite or worn asphalt roads. Many MINI owners opt to switch to non-run flats for the improved ride, lower noise, and handling characteristics — saving a considerable amount of money in the process. The gamble, of course, is that you could be stranded in the boonies if you picked up a nail. In my fifty years of driving, I’ve only had to change two flats on the road and both of these were in the 1960s. All the other times, the leak has been slow enough to let me get back home, which is what the run flats do. I also carry a 12-volt air compressor in the boot just in case. If you do, switch, you may want to consider holding on to those old run flats. I’ve heard that some dealers will not accept non-run flats on a trade-in. I’ve also heard that a new generation of run flats are much better. I’ve had a good experience with TIRE RACK.
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Thumps from the Boot My MINI S was sold as a 2010, with a production date of September, 2009. My thumps are heard after driving and are spaced maybe 1 minute apart for 3 or 4 thumps total. A fellow in our car club suggested that it might be the fuel tank venting –something about the exhaust heating the tank. Just a possibility.
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Glovebox Latch This seems to be an especially weak feature on our MINIs. There are a couple of fixes/work-arounds for this on the GEN1’s. The spongey spacer (Fix 1) and the magnet latch (Fix 2). For Gen 2’s, the problem doesn’t seem to be as bad, but mine has failed twice. After opening, the latch fails to hook into the loop on the glovebox door. It appears that either the spring isn’t strong enough or it needs more lubrication than the BMW engineers thought. Each time I was able to get it working again by spraying a tiny amount of silicone on the latch mechanism. WD40 will turn gummy with time, making the problem worse.
(This image was made using a mirror) BACK TO TOP
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- John Scanlan, Motoring Manager at MINI of Birmingham, wrote on the Magic MINIs FB page: “We have Alloy Wheel Repair at MINI of Birmingham they will make it as good as new!! Just give RJ a call in the service department he can schedule you in!! 745-4722″.
- He also said that MINI recommends turbo engines need to idle for 15 seconds before turning off to allow the oil in the turbo to circulate and cool. I wonder how this works with the new ON/Off technology.
- “J.C”, service adviser at MINI of Birmingham, said that MINI recommends oil changes every 15,000 miles. There’s no mention of this in my owner’s manual, and MINI of South Atlanta refused to honor the free oil change until the CBS said so — at 22,000 miles.
Silver Aluminum Smart Key Fob Ring Rim Trim Cover Replacement for R55 R56 R57 R58 R59 R60
GEN2 Door Handle & Latch Lube Video – 5 mins
Replacing the OEM Battery When the OEM Exide battery was just over 4-years old, it failed in my driveway. I’d been living on borrowed time and decided to pre-empt another dead battery surprise. I chose the AutoZone H5-DLG on the advice of another R56 MINI Cooper S owner. I removed the 10mm fasteners and passenger side plastic apron before having AutoZone tech do the actual swap. I had to reset clock and lost the trip mileage, but not cumulative mileage. Cost, including the corrosion prevention kit & tax – $181.32. I debated having it reprogrammed but it was over 1.5 years before I needed to go to MINI of Birmingham for different issue. While there I asked about reprogramming the battery. The SA asked how long it had been since I replaced it and if I had had any problems. When I explained 1.5 years and no problems, he shrugged and said it was probably OK. Way Motor Works says you should. I think MINI has just over engineered this part. I’m still waiting for someone to make a good case for having the IBS reprogrammed. Update: 5-years later, still no problems.