Mike Shockley: October 10, 2020
I’ve located a very nice 74 TR6. Gonna buy it unless something tells me to walk away. There was a lot of work done to the car in 92 by the original owner just before his passing. The car remained in the family and sat for a while after the car was “freshened up”. A knowledgeable friend intervened to help with the sale of the car. This seems to be a rust free TR6 in excellent condition. 75k miles prior to the overhaul in 92. The car has a hardtop and the convertible top frame was never installed or is missing or was never acquired by the original owner when purchased. The price seems reasonable considering the condition and history of the car. I don’t know a lot about the TR6. What pitfalls await me? Fuel lines? Gas tank rust? Varnished carbs?…
Comments:
D Patrick Harris: Mike I have a 72. If I can help let me know.
Andy Martin: Biggest thing is rust on the frame just at the rear differential. If the frame in that area is solid, then the rest is not a big deal. Change all the fluids and be sure you have good oil pressure. Thats really it.
Mike McKitrick: Check the rubber diaphragm in top of both carbs. They’re prone to cracking, getting brittle over time.
Russell Whigham: Does it run as good as it looks?
Mike Shockley: Not yet. The car has been sitting for 9 years. Carbs are a mess. It will idle but stumbles under load. I’ll need to borrow some know how and possibly some Stromberg tuning tools after I’ve rebuilt the carbs. Any helpful tips are welcome. Hoping for an easy fix.
David Price: It looks awesome! What a beauty!!
Mike Shockley: Thank you! I really like the hardtop. When I was a wee lad, my favorite uncle lived in Houston. He had two TR6s & a couple of Harleys. It was great when he drove a 6 from Houston to Alabama for a visit. And even better when I went there.
As a teenager he instilled this addiction of British cars. I love TR6s but love this MGA even more.
Have fun – it’s a really great British car. I’ve been hooked since watching Bob Tullius and the Group 44 cars at the SCCA Runoffs at Road Atlanta in the early 70s. Those cars sounded incredible and went like stink!
Brad Sinclair: Looks great 👍
Hunter Goodlett: 👍
Robert ‘Reb’ Black: 👍
Andy Martin: Very nice Mike!
Mike McKitrick: Great! Love TR6s.
Thomas Miro, Mon, Oct 19 at 8:29 AM
Mike:
Stombergs sadly get a bad rep, generally unearned, probably from all those poor MGB and Spit owners who are saddled with the atrocious automatic choke models. As long as the float level is right, and there are no vacuum leaks, they work well. Replacing the carb’s rubber diaphragms will usually make a tremendous difference addressing stumbles even without removing the carbs. British Parts Northwest has the best; German made, and not expensive. Make sure the dashpots are filled, use gear oil, not 20 weight – it just works better.
If you do a full rebuild, there is a tiny O-ring in the needle adjustment unit located in the piston, if it has hardened over time and leaks, the dashpot oil will mysteriously disappear – no need to replace unless it leaks. No need to use Grose Jets to replace factory needle valves as long as you drive the car regularly. Although Grose Jets have been touted as the answer to all stuck needle valves, they too can gum up, and fail to seal. I went back to the factory needles and have been pleased with the results. If you do a full rebuild, make sure you order the bypass valve diaphragms separately, as they are not included in any rebuild kit I have seen. If they leak, the car has a tough time returning to idle. I replaced mine nearly 10 years ago, and haven’t touched them since.
I will be happy to lend you my Stromberg mixture adjustment tool. Do not be tempted to simply use an Allen wrench to adjust the mixture. If you do, you will almost always tear the main rubber diaphragm, crippling carb performance.
My eight cents.
Tell me when you want the tool and where to deliver it.
Thomas Miro, Mon, Oct 19 at 10:09 AM
More grist for the mill. Mikel once your carbys are sorted – check the timing. The factory timing specs were established solely to satisfy emission requirements. Using them, the car runs poorly.
The vacuum capsule on your car,’s distributor, unless it has been replaced, is a vacuum retard unit. Nothing about that is good. Disconnect it, plug the vacuum port on the carb that feeds it, then set the timing using the mechanical advance function only. I think it is 32 degrees BTDC at maximum advance. You will need an adjustable timing light to set this. Although it sounds odd, John Twist from University Motors does not lie – see his TR6 video on YouTube. It makes a huge difference in the drivability of these cars.
Thomas Miro, Mon, Oct 19 at 10:32 AM
BTW, Mike, I still run regular gas with no detonation problems. The stock compression ratio for a 76 is a pitiful 7.5 to one. Your car might have a whopping 7.75 to one, but the hot petrol injected early cars (69-72) sold everywhere in the world but here had 9.5 to one, and 45 more hp. Sigh.
BTW, before we started the surgery, we gave her a shot. it started, and ran, albeit somewhat roughly. It will be fine with the carbs cleaned, methinks.
October 22, 2020
The Garage
October 23, 2020
October 24
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October 27, 2020
Glove box hinge repair
Worked on the hinges for the glove box today. The dash plywood was notched out previously and the screws would not hold.
October 31, 2020
A few more things removed from the to do list. New fuel pump, choke cables bonnet release cable,and choke return springs for the carbs. Still have lots to do – throttle bushings, new gas tank and sending unit, and vent line and fuel hose for starters.
November 7, 2020
After waiting for parts, the fuel tank is back in and ready to go.
November 14, 2000
New tires for the TR6 Today. These made a world of difference! The old ( 15 year old) Dunlop’s had plenty of tread but were hopelessly deteriorated. The ride is much better now.
November 16, 2000
The new choke cables were very hard to pull so those got redone and the pull to engage is much smoother now. It seems that there is no end to the small things that need to be done but it is a good way to learn the ins and outs of this car. Also it seems that I’ll have plenty of time for this since the parts needed aren’t available locally and have to be ordered and shipped. At least I don’t wonder what I’ll do tomorrow.
November 20, 2020
I’ve been chasing an irregular idle in the XJ6 and finally solved the issue today. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and ignition amplifier didn’t help. That left the coil or distributor. I picked up a good used distributor and that solved the problem. All the other parts didn’t hurt and now she’s running smooth as silk.
The TR6 was missing the upper bushings, washers, and nuts on both front shocks. Both shocks were banging around inside the coil springs. Many thanks to Tom Miro for tracking the mysterious noise coming from the front end. The local parts stores are next to worthless for even common parts for our cars. I scrounged the upper bushings and washers from Meriweather’s garage on Ann Street. Those guys never throw anything out and I found some usable stuff in their bolt box to get the 6 back on the road.
Lots of tedium here. The replacement switch is not plug and play. All of the metal backing has to match the opening in the wood dash.
November 22, 2020
The car is running great! I got the shocks bolted up and drove her home for a much needed bath. My wife and I went for a drive. The TR6 is loud but I love it!
Instruments lighting up! These weren’t working when I bought the car. A jumper wire to bypass the dimmer rheostat solved the problem.
